ON a wet, windy, miserable afternoon, lunching with some pals is a great antidote to the rigours of our Cumbrian weather, I thought as I splashed across a car park, headed to the Custom House in Barrow.

Perennially popular after many years, the Custom House is a firm fixture on the Barrow lunch scene, and is invariably busy no matter what day of the week you visit. Last Thursday, the driving rain may have kept some customers home indoors, but there were still plenty of diners when we arrived for our 12.30pm booking.

We were seated in the one of the prime window seats, affording a view of the less than spectacular surroundings of the town's main retail parks. Thankfully, we had the large menus to claim our attention.

A mixture of snacks, pasta dishes and main meals, there is plenty to choose from at the Custom House, two of us going from the light bites end of the menu, and one from the pasta selection.

Tuna baked potato at £6.95 for Sheila; Penne fegatine (with chicken livers and bacon) for Heather - also for £6.95 - and a prawn baguette for yours truly, completing the trio of £6.95 dishes. I added a bowl of chips to my order for the sake of variety on the price front.

Decor wise, the Custom House seems as though it hasn't changed in years. In many ways that's a good thing - I like places to be reassuringly familiar; and the change-for-change's-sake approach some places adopt can be a little tiresome. However, after so many years looking exactly as it does now, I can't help feeling the Custom House is due a few tweaks at least and, to my eye, it needs brightening up a little.

Our food arrived promptly, although Sheila's coffee was forgotten about and a gentle reminder had to be issued.

The baked potato was piled with masses of tuna and mayo filling, with a fairly generous salad on the side. Sheila had asked for the dish to come minus coleslaw, but even without that, there was plenty to go at.

My prawns were on the rubbery side and the Marie Rose sauce was far too thin, but the baguette was fresh and, again, it came with a decent side salad and some crisps. Sheila wasn't missing much on the coleslaw front - mine was far too sharp, with an almost vinegary taste. But with everything else on the plate, plus a bowl of chips to go at, it was hardly needed anyway.

The chips were piping hot and fluffy but, once again, let down by tomato sauce which was thin and harsh in texture and taste. Good quality, thick sauces aren't difficult to either master or acquire - and the Custom House would do well to up its game in this area.

Heather's pasta was a huge bowlful of well-cooked penne, with a rich and creamy sauce full of chicken livers, bacon, onions and cream. It looked as good as Heather said it tasted - and I resolved to try it on my next visit.

Service was, as always here, friendly and efficient; the staff work hard and are certainly kept on their toes. A constant stream of customers was coming and going during our lunchtime visit; and I feel sure that was merely a pre-cursor to a busy afternoon tea session - something for which the Custom House has gained a high reputation over recent years.

With lunch served from 11.30am to 6pm and with breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner also served, the Custom House does sterling work keeping the people of Furness fed and watered, whatever their requirements.

A few duff sauces aren't enough to spoil the enjoyment of a visit here - and are so easily remedied that they are of little consequence (assuming they are indeed remedied).

Buzzy and busy, it's no wonder the place has remained so popular for so many years. Time, perhaps, for a bit of a revamp - but I feel sure the Custom House will retain its place in the affections of its many loyal and long-standing customers.

Custom House, Barrow

Scores (out of five)

Food 3.5

Service 4

Atmosphere 3.5

Value 4

Pros

Serves all day

Amenable staff

Large menu

Cons

No car park

Sauces need improving