IN the world of pub refurbishments, some happen with barely a whimper - and you go back in wondering what, beyond a new carpet and lick of paint, has changed - while others happen with a real bang.

The Farmers in Ulverston which (to the horror of the town's coffee drinkers, beer quaffers and diners) closed down for seven weeks while a refit took place, falls squarely into the latter category. This town centre institution has reopened following a major refurbishment, to a veritable chorus of "Wow!"s from its customers.

I left it a couple of weeks to visit, largely on the grounds that it would be absolutely heaving with understandably curious customers; but I finally ventured in last Saturday for lunch. Initial impressions depend on which entrance you use. From the front, the main bar area is still recognisably the Farmers (hurrah!), albeit very much smarter than before. From the rear, however, it is like walking into a completely different - and much larger - place, with an unmistakably city feel to the surroundings.

Thanks to a major reworking of the interior, a rear extension and a move upstairs for the ladies loos, the Farmers is now huge, with a much-extended dining area at the top and a very stylish middle section, with lots of high seating, as well as some inviting booths. My friend and I started in the main bar with glasses of wine, before moving up to the middle section to partake of lunch when, on a trip to the new loos, I spied someone about to leave one of the booth tables.

The atmosphere in the middle part of the Farmers is buzzy with, as I say, a city wine bar feel to it. The place was packed for a late Saturday lunchtime, with groups of ladies sitting at the high tables enjoying bottles of prosecco, and couples and families dining all around. The main colour themes are brown and blue, which may sound odd but which really works. Bespoke copper tables are a distinctive touch, and the lighting - so important and yet so easy to get wrong - is superb and does as much to enhance the feel of the place as anything else. Good lighting can make or break a place - and they've got it absolutely spot-on here.

The menu at the Farmers remains true to its pre-refurbishment days - no point mending something that isn't broken - with plenty of its favourite dishes available and loads of veggie and gluten-free options available. I went for mussels and langoustines at £14, while Sarah chose the Farmers burger for £13. The busy but on-the-ball staff had clocked that we had moved upstairs since ordering, delivering our food to us in one of the booth seats - ours was where the men's loos used to be.

Sarah's burger was one of the best she'd had - seriously good meat, melting cheese, great salsa and a generous basket of lovely chips. It would be hard-pressed to top my mussels, though: an immense bowlful of perfectly tender and juicy mussels, lovely langoustines, chunky chips and crusty bread, all served in a stunningly good garlic and cream sauce. I may have looked like Bessie Bunter with all that sitting in front of me, but it was so good, I couldn't care less. The Farmers has always been renowned locally for the quality of its food - and that is one thing that certainly hasn't changed. This was top notch.

Later, we shared a gorgeous Eton mess (£5) which came in a tall glass, with long spoons. It wasn't quite as messy as an Eton mess should be - the meringue was a complete piece rather than the classic broken up stuff - but, gosh, it was good, a hidden dollop of ice cream adding to the naughtiness of it.

We were in there for hours in the end. Not because the service was slow (far from it) but because the Farmers in its new guise exudes conviviality. It's stylish, but not achingly so, and cleverly retains its appeal for customers of all ages. The morning coffee clientele and those popping in for a swift half are clearly as much valued as before - for a pub is nothing without its regulars. This is a seriously impressive refurbishment, which is great for the Farmers and great for the town.

Food 5 Service 5 Atmosphere 5 Value 5

Pros Buzzy and stylish Varied menu with plenty of favourites Good accessibility for disabled customers

Cons Be prepared to wait for a table at busy times if you haven't booked