IN recent years I've become increasingly keen on eating out early in the evenings. "Going out for tea", according to the northern saying.

There are many advantages to this: it's usually easy to get a table "early doors", you can have a good blow-out safe in the knowledge that you won't be up all night with indigestion, and you can be home and into your onesie (if you have one - which I don't) in time for the nine o'clock news. And with winter all but upon us, it's the earlier the better in my book.

So when a friend and I decided to go out for tea recently, I was honking my horn outside her house by 5.30pm. We tootled, gossiping, out of Barrow and headed to Rampside to the Clarkes Hotel. Formerly the Clarkes Arms, it is one of those places that has slipped under my radar latterly, and the last time I visited was about eight years ago with my mum.

When we pulled up outside, the car park was largely empty and we wondered if we'd been a little too quick off the blocks, as there were no lights on in the dining room. However, once inside, we found a fair few early-doors customers enjoying a snifter at the bar, and an enquiry from us as to the availability of food met with an affirmative from the friendly young woman behind the bar, and a flick of the switch to illuminate the dining area. I'm all for saving energy, but if you want to pull in the early punters, at least light the place up before the first diners turn up.

My friend Barbara and I acquired some wine and settled ourselves at a window table to choose our grub. The menu is extensive and varied, packed with specials and pub classics. Traditional fare was what we were after, so for starters I went for that uber classic, potted shrimps, while Barbara chose moules mariniere. Both arrived promptly; and both were very good. Barbara's mussels were plentiful and juicy and in a terrific creamy sauce. They went down a treat. My potted shrimps were also good, although I found the presentation a bit too poncy for such a traditional dish. They came on a black plate and the chef had somehow managed to make the shrimps difficult to discern. Having said that, they did taste delicious; and the accompanying salad, while disproportionately large, was crisp and well-dressed.

We asked for - and got - a break between courses, and when the main course came, we were glad we had. The portions at the Clarkes are certainly generous. We had both again chosen classics: pie of the day for me (which that day was steak and ale) and a chicken curry for Barbara. Each dish cost a reasonable £10.95.

By this time two other couples had come into the dining room - and the staff had committed what to my mind is one of the most annoying sins of restaurant staff: despite the large dining room being otherwise empty, they'd put us all at adjoining tables. Why do so many places do this? Twenty-plus years ago, I fell out with John Tovey at Miller Howe when my husband and I, there for lunch, were plonked next to the kitchen door and right next to the only other couple in the place (who were having a business meeting) - and our reasonable request to move was turned down flat.

So there we were in the Clarkes, six of us (two glued to their smartphones) practically sitting on top of each other. Every time I so much as shifted in my seat, my chair banged into the man sitting behind me. Grrr. Luckily, the food made up for this irritation. My pie was packed with tender steak and in a delicious gravy. With it came a huge dish of homemade chunky chips, cauliflower, carrots, mange tout and cabbage. English mustard was requested and brought promptly. This was an excellent pie - the best of British.

Barbara's curry was also very good indeed. Nice and spicy, plenty of juicy chicken and with chips, rice, naan bread and chutney. Very tasty and very good value all round. Neither of us was able to finish our food - but in a good way. We had no room for afters but there were plenty of traditional puds to choose from - and if they were the same standard as the food we had already enjoyed, I'm sure they would not disappoint.

In all, we had enjoyed a high-quality meal, with good value and service. My minor niggles about the lighting and the silly seating of the punters are just that: minor. Our early-doors tea had been an enjoyable interlude. And I was back home in time for the news.

LOUISE ALLONBY

Food 4 Service 4 Value 4 Atmosphere 3

Pros Pub classics Generous portions Large car park

Cons Dining room could be cosier at night; Kitchen doors could do with screening off from restaurant