IT was a chance lunch. A what-can-we-do-today type of affair which had led us down the A590 in the general direction of the Lakes.

The weather had been persuasive; for the first time of the year, the sun was radiating some real heat. The cloudy skies and wicked bite of spring thus far had been cast aside.

It was family day out kind of weather - and time for a reminder of why sometimes, it's just better to stay at home.

Our journey to the Gilpin Bridge had been standard. Arguments and sniping in the back among the children, growling and threats of digital device bans from dad in the front.

By the time we actually pulled off the A590 in search of a place to escape the family MPV, I had a pocket bulging full of the things. Point made - objections flowing.

"Why don't we all sit down and have a nice chat," I suggested. "It's what I did when I was a little boy."

I'm sure there was a collective 360-degree roll of the eyes as dad harked back to his childhood days once more, but attention soon turned to the playground which made up around half of the outdoor area at the Gilpin Bridge.

Recently refurbished, the interior is impressive, boasting mellow tones of grey and magnolia on the floors and walls, and rustic wooden furniture for diners.

There are exposed beams, intimate snugs and plenty of space should you be with a larger party.

The sunshine had seduced us, however, and we set up camp outside, ordering two jacket potatoes (one with cheese, the other with beans) with salad, a lemon chicken mayo ciabatta with chunky chips, a children's pizza and a tuna mayo ciabatta, also with chips.

A smattering of diners were around us; a couple of bikers, another family and a young pair who reminded me of a life pre-children.

Our order snapped me out of my reverie. Service had been speedy and within 15 minutes of ordering our food had arrived.

The ciabattas were fantastic, generously filled and good enough for a solid lunch. The lemon chicken in particular was excellent, comprising huge chunks of breast on bread lavished with zingy mayo and adorned with salad. The chunky chips were indeed chunky, and offered an ample accompaniment to what was a top meal.

The tuna mayo brought up the rear with a solid effort; tasty enough but not quite attaining the high-flying status of its poultry-based peer of the sandwich world.

In potato land we were teetering on the precipice of disaster. I could feel a moan brewing among the children; I sensed all was not well.

The jackets were well overdone, while the cheese variant had been loaded with a pallid, grated mozzarella or similar which packed little if anything in the flavour department. The potato with beans was marginally better, save for its status as beyond cooked.

The children's pizza was disappointing too, comprising half a mini baguette, sliced lengthways and topped with a not-too-great tomato sauce and the same uninspiring cheese.

It was a shame the children's meals had been a disappointment because, in general, the Gilpin Bridge had a cracking pub with friendly service in a great location which, based on the adults' food at least, offers good pub grub at a reasonable price.

We settled up including drinks at just shy of £45, so by no means a king's ransom.

We shall return to its sun-kissed gardens and have another go at the lunch menu - because there was plenty of potential there.

Food *** 1/2

Value - ****

Service - ****

Atmosphere ****

Pros

Great location

Lovely inside and large space outside in sun

Plenty of parking

Playground for children

Cons

Children's food disappointing

Designated driver needed (unless you want to get a room)