The Royal Oak, Lindale

When villages get bypassed, their residents tend to be universally delighted by the resulting reduction in traffic.

Businesses which rely on passing trade, however, must be rather less delighted. It is a thought which often strikes men whenever I cut across the Lindale bypass in order to head to Grange.

At the top of Lindale village, on what used to be the main A590 trunk road, lies the Royal Oak pub; and because I'm invariably hurtling past on the Lindale bypass and therefore never see it, it's a pub which I have never been to, in more than 50 years on this planet. Until last Saturday.

We had arranged to meet my sister and brother-in-law for lunch and, Lindale being in their patch, we decided to meet at the Royal Oak.

Due to its position, the Royal Oak site is a little vulnerable to flooding - a problem which has been alleviated via the expedient of a large hump at the entrance to the car park, which diverts rainwater along the road, instead of into the back door of the pub.

A simple protection (although if you've got a car with a low-slung chassis, be a little judicious about the way you drive in, as I learnt last Saturday).

Approaching from the top of the bypass, it's unfortunately the car park and the back of the pub which visitors first encounter - a shame, because the front of the pub is very attractive.

Inside, it's very restful and welcoming, decorated in subtle, country shades of green, with a nice - but not twee - level of rusticity. My sister and I both immediately began to covet a lovely oak settle bench in the main bar.

We settled at a roomy table in the top of the pub, affording a good view of proceedings.

Despite being now slightly off the beaten track, and despite the fact it was lashing with rain, I was very pleased to see the Royal Oak was doing a brisk Saturday lunchtime trade.

For starters, my sister, brother-in-law and I shared a Royal Oak deli board for £9.95, comprising Cartmel valley game, smoked salmon, garlic prawns, air-dried ham, chorizo, hummus, salad and artisan bread.

Gordon went for a starter from that day's specials menu - seared mackerel fillets with celeriac purée and curry spices, for £5.45.

All were excellent. The deli board was actually a deli plate and was packed with really excellent quality treats. The huge prawns were the star of the show for me - but all the elements were very good indeed (including a beautifully-dressed salad). Great value, as there was plenty to go round for the three of us.

Gordon's mackerel was well-presented and he enjoyed it very much, the celeriac purée complementing the oily fish well.

Gordon again went for one of the specials for his main course (hake with clams and chorizo in white wine, tomatoes and parsley - £14.50), while the rest of us were in the mood for pub classics. Burgers for my brother-in-law and me: £10.95, with an extra quid for an additional topping. I went for caramelised onions, while David chose Stilton cheese.

Sister Nicola asked for a small portion of fish and chips.

Again, all were excellent. Gordon's hake was tender and juicy, in a rich sauce with plenty of also-tender clams. It came with new potatoes and fresh veg - and all went down a treat.

As did our burgers. Proper, thick quality beef burgers with lashings of accompaniments and loads of lovely home made chips. My caramelised onions were luscious and this was everything a good pub burger should be. David concurred with my view.

The so-called small portion of fish and chips was more than enough for Nicola - indeed, she was last to finish by a mile. She declared it excellent.

By the time we had finished all this, the lunchtime trade was winding down. Serena Williams was thrashing her opponent in the Wimbledon singles final, watched by a clutch of Royal Oak locals on a telly in the main bar area.

Gordon had a lovely lemon tart for pudding, while the three of us shared a cheese plate, on which we had requested that goats cheese should not under any circumstances feature. It didn't, we were pleased to see.

We were the last to leave, having thoroughly enjoyed our long-overdue visit to this excellent pub. Food and service throughout was faultless. The surroundings are highly convivial and comfortable. We were all impressed.

The Royal Oak is well worth forking off the A590 for.

Food 4

Service 4

Atmosphere 4

Value 4

Pros

Pleasant decor

Friendly service

Large car park

Cons

Rear approach uninspiring

Beware the car park hump