Trawling through our food review archive for a round-up of the some of the most memorable eating experiences of 2016, I noticed a glaring anomaly - we hadn't visited any eating establishments in Dalton that year.

Not for want of trying, it must be said: I made at least two attempts to review one venue (finding it either closed or chef-less when I visited), while another was closed for renovations when I rang to book. A fair number of others in the town had been reviewed in 2015, and were thus ineligible under our unofficial two-year rule.

So 2017 just had to kick off with an eatery in the ancient - not to mention Christmas - capital of Furness.

And so it came to pass that on a dull afternoon this week, my husband and I set out on a minutes-long trek to find a Dalton dinery.

We parked up outside the Brown Cow, a pub I have never been to in all my 51 years on earth and, more crucially, one which had not been reviewed since 2014.

The Brown Cow is on Goose Green (they like to link their animals to colours in these parts) and, in my naivety, I expected it to be either a) closed or b) not serving lunch, what with it being one of those dull dog days in the post new year lull.

How wrong I was. The cosy bar was indeed pretty much empty and my hopes weren't high, until the barmaid (are we allowed to call them that these days?) said that yes indeed, lunch was being served and that she would take us upstairs when she'd sorted our drinks.

Upstairs at the Brown Cow turns out to be a whole new world. A labyrinthine collection of dining rooms, up and down little flights of steps, with tables galore. It was almost like stepping into Narnia. I was amazed.

And the place was packed with families and couples enjoying a very lively lunchtime. Half of Dalton must have been in there.

If I didn't despise the word so much, I'd have to describe myself as gobsmacked.

The menu is very extensive and packed with pub classics. There's also a "laughing cow" meal deal menu - one course for £6.95 or two for £8.75. We decided to order from the main menu.

Duck spring rolls for Gordon served as a starter for £4.75, after which we went for the perfect winter pub classics: Cumberland sausage for me, and steak and kidney suet pudding for Gordon, costing £10.50 and £9.95 respectively.

The staff were totally on the ball - and they must be fit as fleas with all that pounding up and down the stairs. As one group left, I noticed there is access from the first floor directly out to the lane, excellent for those who can't or don't want to negotiate all the stairs. The food came promptly and there was certainly plenty of it.

The duck rolls were standard starter fare - nothing of the wow factor (not that there's anything particularly exciting to be done with a spring roll) but very tasty and with a generous salad.

The mains were excellent. Nothing pretentious or fancy: just excellent quality, wholesome, plentiful pub grub. Absolutely perfect for a post-Christmas pre-diet blowout on a dull winter's afternoon.

My sausage was huge, with a crisp and runny fried egg, good veg, a juicy field mushroom, grilled tomato and a vat of home-made chips. A side salad which came with it was entirely superfluous.

Gordon's steak and kidney pud was packed with meat, swimming in gravy and accompanied by fresh veg and a bowl of boiled potatoes (there is, of course, any number of potato options from which to choose).

I couldn't manage all of my sausage, and I didn't even have to ask to take it home - that was offered and no sooner said than done. Our dogs can confirm that this was a very good quality banger.

A lovely apple and cinnamon crumble with ice cream rounded off what had been a pretty gargantuan lunch; and I was beginning to wonder if we'd make it back down the stairs.

The friendly manager was amused when I expressed my surprise at finding such a busy pub at such a quiet time of the week - and, indeed, year.

The pub, she informed me, is open every day of the year, serving food all day from 11.30am. It's been family-owned for more than 30 years; and they don't believe in change for change's sake. Hurrah!

That is exactly what makes a pub successful. Knowing one's market and sticking to it; providing good quality, unfussy food in unfussy surroundings and served by expert and very friendly staff. I'm ashamed it's taken me half a century to discover the delights of the Brown Cow.

Food 4

Atmosphere 4

Service 5

Value 4

Pros

Family friendly

Serves food all day

Lots of beers

Cons

Peak times will be packed

Parking might get congested at busy times