Last updated at 13:35, Wednesday, 04 January 2012

TWELVE months after her first visit to the Mediterranean island, AMY FENTON returned to Sardinia and discovered some of the hidden gems on offer at the idyllic holiday destination.

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WHEN I first visited Sardinia 12 months ago, one of the highlights of my trip was discovering the island’s traditional charm had not been invaded by tourists.

When I returned in 2011, I was delighted to find the rustic Italian towns and breezy beaches were still very much a secret.

Determined to experience more this year, my partner and I decided to go ‘off the beaten track’ in a bid to discover some of the island’s hidden gems.

We rented a car from Nolauto Alghero and within a matter of minutes the golden beaches and bustling towns had been replaced by narrow, winding rural roads leading up to the highest vantage points on the island as we made our way inland.

Quite by chance, we came across a burial ground and tombs which had first been used more than 5,000 years ago. The size of the Pottu Codinu tombs was extraordinary; we could barely bend over enough to fit through the tiny ‘doors’ and it was remarkable to think that thousands of years earlier, settlers had lived here and buried their loved ones. Although the weather was hot, the breeze was strong and we could see right across the entire island.

The tombs were discovered by accident in the 20th century, and excavations took place in 1987 and 1988, proving the Pottu Codinu is very much a recent find and the entrance cost us just 1.5 euro each.

Making our way back towards the north west of Sardinia, we passed through some delightful little villages, clearly untouched by the hands of tourists. The streets were so narrow they were barely wide enough for our little Punto, and meeting a car travelling in the opposite direction proved the Italians are somewhat fearless drivers.

I was compelled to pull over as we drove over a bridge, the Rio Filigosa, which straddles the huge artificial lake, Lago di Temo. The views are breathtaking, and although living in the Lake District means we might take such sights for granted back home, standing a few thousand feet above sea level and looking across Sardinia towards the Gulf of Alghero is a sight we won’t forget.

We then drove to Bosa, which is a quaint marina town with a large sandy beach backed by scores of tiny bars and restaurants. Be warned if you drive to Bosa – there didn’t appear to be any parking signs and so we had to park the car close to the beach so we could keep an eye out for Sardinian traffic wardens.

However, although the beach was idyllic, it was more exposed than Alghero and so the winds were much stronger – not only did we struggle to hold onto our hats but the sand regularly buffeted into our faces and we ended up being lured into a false sense of security and burned quickly in the unassuming heat. Even in September and October, temperatures can reach 35C.

The drive back to Alghero took longer than I’d expected – because the streets and roads are so narrow and occasionally slip away down the side of a mountain, you have to drive much slower and more carefully than in other parts of Europe. The speed limits are, understandably, much lower too.

One of the main reasons Italy is my favourite holiday destination is the food, and there are literally scores of restaurants and trattorias along each of the bustling cobbled streets of Alghero.

For tasty, traditional fare and somewhere with a bit of character, try Palau Reial, located on the ground floor of a medieval palazzo where a meal will set you back about £25 per person.

One of my personal favourites is Aragon, which I also visited in 2010. Tables are squeezed onto the tiny pavements alongside the entrance and the prices are very reasonable; a steak with rocket, grated hard cheese and salad will set you back around £10 and you can get a bottle of local red wine for around £13.

The owners of Aragon also have the nearby Girasol cafe fruit bar, where we spent many a night nibbling canapes and pre-dinner glasses of the local lager, Ichnusa.

Although I am a dedicated wine-lover, we also visited the elegant Cafe Latino in Alghero, where we sipped cocktails as the sun set.

The bar is nestled alongside the old town walls, with views over the harbour and into the cabins of some of the fancy yachts. Although the prices may seem high (10 euro for a cocktail) you get plenty for your money and they certainly hit the spot.

As with most European holiday destinations, prices are higher than what we have become used to in the UK.

A beer (not quite a pint in measure) will cost around £5 and a meal for two (main course and drinks only) sets you back at least £50.

But the increased costs are worth paying for.

There are few Mediterranean islands which haven’t become tourist hotspots where you can still sit at the side of a marina as the sun sets with a glass of wine and hear nothing but the fast foreign chatter of the locals – you will find more Italians on holiday in Sardinia than British tourists.

We stayed in the penthouse Apartment Vista, one of a number of holiday properties managed by expat Louise Childs.

Although small in size, the apartment’s immense rooftop terrace proved to be one of the focal points of our holiday – by day we would have breakfast and lunch while watching the world go by below us and after going out for dinner each night we would retire to the balcony with a bottle of local red wine we had bought from the local supermarket for just two euro.

The apartment overlooked the marina and beach, and in the evenings the gentle twinkling lights of the boats and restaurants provided a relaxing end to the day.

As opposed to last year, this time we opted for a self-catering option, which gave us the freedom to please ourselves during the day rather than having to vacate a room to allow the cleaners to move in.

At lunchtime, we would make our own sandwiches using cheese, tomatoes and salami bought from the shop around the corner, usually washed down with an ice-cold Ichnusa. The location was perfect – the beach was less than two minutes from our private entrance with shops, bars and restaurants on the other side of the road.

After visiting for the second year, Sardinia remains my ‘secret’ and favourite holiday destination, and yet I’m amazed more Brits haven’t discovered the delights of the island.

It might not be long before the invasion begins, so treat yourselves to an early holiday in the sun and find out why Sardinia is my favourite beach holiday destination.

TRAVEL FACTS

Car hire - We paid a daily rate of 87 euro for a Fiat Punto from Nolauto Alghero. Daily prices range from 60 euro for a Fiat 600 to 140 euro for a minibus. 

Accommodation - Alghero Estates is a portfolio of private properties managed by British ex-pat Louise Childs. There are eight villas and 15 apartments available, ranging from seafront roof terrace apartments like Apartment Vista (prices starting from 480 euro for a week) to a five-bedroom countryside villa with pool (starting from 1,580 euro a week). Visit www.algheroestates.com for more details. 

Flights - We flew to Alghero from East Midlands with leading low-cost airline bmibaby with prices starting from £59.99 one way including all taxes. In 2012 the airline is launching new routes from East Midlands Airport to holiday destinations including Gibraltar, Corfu, Murcia and Napes. Prices start from £39.99 one way, including all taxes. For more information visit www.bmibaby.com     

Attractions - Entrance to the Pottu Codinu (rock cut tombs) which is 6km from Villanova Monteleone, cost just 1.5 euro for one adult. 

First published at 13:34, Thursday, 29 December 2011
Published by http://www.nwemail.co.uk