IN a past life I used to be quite a regular at the Bay Horse pub in Barrow's Belgravia, Hawcoat.

A colleague and I used to drop in for lunchtime drinks in the days when young newspaper reporters drank like fish and smoked like chimneys. Now, they all work out, drink kale smoothies and eat quinoa-based snacks. And they certainly don't smoke.

Back in the 1980s, workday lunches comprised pints of lager, packets of Marlboro and chips. Happy days. Since about 1990, I have been in the Bay Horse just once; so on Wednesday lunchtime I decided to rectify things and, grabbing my handbag and my husband, headed along there.

It was a blisteringly hot day and the beer garden (which wasn't there when I last visited) had a few people in it.

Before its incarnation to a pub, the Bay Horse was a private house. I know this because I know the family who used to live there. From the outside you can still see that it was once a home - but the functional (and not at all attractive) extension on the side shouts "pub".

Inside, the Bay Horse is large and airy but somewhat lacking in atmosphere. We found an empty table in the cavernous extension, where there were a fair few tables occupied by diners enjoying a half term lunch out.

The decor is very dated, with dark burgundy scuffed paint below the dado rails and a dark and heavily patterned carpet. Chic it is not. 

However, it is very popular (it was busy the whole time we were there), it's good value and, as we discovered over the course of our visit, it does staple pub food very well.

And the drinks aren't expensive. Gordon's pint of Fosters lager was £3.35, while my large chardonnay was £4.35 and perfectly drinkable if not exactly a fine vintage.

We decided to go retro. I ordered plaice goujons for a starter, while Gordon eventually decided on a prawn cocktail - both for £4.95. They arrived promptly, delivered to our table by a very friendly woman. The service throughout was spot on and constantly cheerful. There is clearly a very efficient team working here.

The goujons were hot and filled with good quality plaice, while Gordon's prawns were plentiful and juicy and accompanied by a fresh, warm white roll. Both starters came with a simple and traditional side salad.

Gordon ordered a small mixed grill (£8.50) for his main course. I went for a chicken and scampi combo (£9.95) with a piri piri spicing on the chicken.

Again, they arrived promptly. Gordon's mixed grill was hardly "small", containing a rare (as requested) steak, sausage, pork chop, onion rings, grilled tomatoes, chips and peas. We dreaded to think how much there must be on the large version of this dish.

He thoroughly enjoyed it and despite the amount, heroically managed to polish off the lot. I did less well with my chicken and scampi. The scampi alone sufficed, although the chicken was a lovely tender breast, with a deliciously spicy coating. Plenty of chips and peas, onion rings and a grilled tomato (which I loathe, so I gave mine to Gordy), meant this was a real feast.

A couple of ladies came in and sat at the table behind us, and unwittingly provided us with a glorious Victoria Wood moment. The waitress bearing their starters to their table announced "Two soups!" as she placed the bowls in front of the women. Disappointingly, the waitress wasn't decrepit (far from it) and she hadn't spilled the lot as she tottered to the table, a la Julie Walters in the late, great Victoria Wood's most famous television sketch. Still, it amused me no end.

After all that excitement, Gordon ordered a jam sponge pudding for £3.75, which was pleasingly light and smothered in lashings of custard. He burnt his mouth on some lava-hot jam but survived the ordeal.

We left feeling full and cheerful, which is just what you want from a down to earth pub lunch.

The Bay Horse may not be the most stylish place to eat in the area, but it's friendly; the service is good; the food is traditional, unfancy, honest grub; and a visit won't break the bank.

By LOUISE ALLONBY

Food: 3 

Service: 4 

Value: 3 

Atmosphere: 2

Pros: Extensive menu, bags of parking, friendly staff, pub grub classics

Cons: Tired decor, lacks atmosphere