Pubs have long been used as handy signposts for anyone giving directions. "Turn left at the Red Lion, go past the vandalised telephone kiosk, past the 24-hour filling station, right at the Dog and Two Ferrets and you're there..."

In these parts, one of the ultimate pub signposts is surely the Rose and Crown at Cark. Any local directing someone to Cartmel from the A590 would only ever say this: "Go along Holker Mosses, past the hall, then fork off left when you get to the Rose and Crown."

I myself have forked off to Cartmel at the Rose and Crown countless times; certainly well in excess of 1,000. This week, for the first time, I didn't fork off - I pulled up in the car park and decided to try the place out at last.

We arrived at 2pm on Wednesday, slap bang in the middle of the half term week. I'd booked ahead but by this hour, the pub was quietening down after the lunchtime rush. A table had been laid for us in the dining end of the pub, but we decided to move into the lighter bar area.

The Rose is slightly smaller inside than I had imagined - although it is by no means cramped. Recently done up, it's smart and bright, with plenty of room for drinkers and diners.

An excellent pint of beer for my husband and glasses of wine for myself and our friend, we began the not insignificant task of choosing our food. The menu here is very extensive, with all sorts of specials, along with great value £9.95 two-course deals, and a romantic-for-Cumbria lovers' special of fish and chips for two plus a bottle of prosecco for £29.95.

Not wanting to get mushy over the mushy peas - not least because we had company - Gordon and I half swerved that one. Half, because he went for the fish and chips (but with a pint of beer rather than prosecco), while I chose the trio of seafood, which comprised prawns in filo pastry, fish goujons and scampi.

Good choice, said the very friendly lady licensee, who looked after us throughout, happily obliging when Gordon asked for the background music to be turned down. Our friend went for the steak and ale pie, one of the £9.95 specials, which also came with a pud.

For starters, Gordon had a generous helping of potted shrimps, with a large salad and more than enough fresh bread and butter. No skimping on the essentials here. Our friend Sally and I shared an equally generous pot of clearly home-made and excellent chicken liver pate, which was accompanied by heaps of warm toast and butter, a pretty salad and a delicious red onion marmalade. We were all impressed.

The mains were no less hearty - so much so, that none of us was able to finish the lot. Sally's pie was a deep-filled affair, packed with tender chunks of steak and accompanied by huge mounds of chips, carrots and peas. Traditional with a capital T pub fare - and great stuff.

My seafood trio was tremendous, the large and luscious goujons being the star of the show. At £11.95 it was good value for the amount and the quality. Gordon's fish and chips were just what pub fish and chips should be, with tender, flaky fish, good chips, mushy peas galore and a big wedge of lemon.

Despite all being stuffed, there was still the meal deal pudding to contend with. Bread and butter pudding, which Gordon commandeered the moment he saw it. He's something of a bread and pudding aficionado is my husband - and he knows a good one when he sees it. The Rose and Crown version practically had him writhing in ecstasy. "The best," he declared between mouthfuls.

We both got a taste and I can confirm that this was a very good pud indeed. And I don't even like bread and butter pudding. The chef-patron stopped for a chat on his way out to walk his doggy, modestly commenting that bread and butter pudding is simple to make. Maybe - but this one was streets ahead of most.

We had enjoyed an excellent meal all round. The Rose and Crown serves really good quality pub food. Lots of it and lots of choice. The service is friendly and efficient. It's a great little pub which for me will no longer be the signpost on the way to somewhere else - but a destination in its own right.

LOUISE ALLONBY

Food 4

Service 4

Atmosphere 3.5

Value 4

Pros

Easy to find

Dog friendly

Lots of choice

Cons

Small car park

Doesn't serve food all day