THE more dining out I do in this area, the more it becomes apparent that it is possible to eat very well for very little.

While Cumbria has earned a deserved reputation for fine dining, thanks to the increasing number of high-end restaurants and Michelin stars, at the other end of the culinary spectrum the more basic stuff is being done well. Most pubs that provide food have seriously upped their games in recent years – and it’s now a rare occurrence to be served a truly duff meal.

And some of the most unassuming places are doing the best job.

Take the Harbour in Barrow. Down near Morrison’s on The Strand, this pub hardly benefits from the most salubrious of settings. It’s a plain, square, cream-painted pub with little kerb appeal; the sort of place one could easily pass by without a second glance.

My friend Maureen knows the pub well, it having been in her family many years ago. She’s been telling me for ages that we must go – so, early doors on Wednesday we headed there. We parked up in the car park at the rear of the pub and scurried alongside the busy road into the front door. There’s a gated yard-cum-beer garden to the side, which Maureen tells me is very pleasant on summer afternoons.

Through the uninspiring entrance I found myself in a surprisingly large, airy, spotlessly clean, smart and bustling pub, wholly different from the back street boozer I was expecting – thus proving how very deceptive appearances can be.

Despite the sign outside announcing food from 5.30pm, service was already under way at just gone 5pm, as the chef, according to the friendly barmaid, was ready early. How refreshing.

A diddy bottle of chardonnay for Maureen and a lime and soda for me, and we took up residence in the surprisingly spacious main dining area. With high ceilings and classic pub decor, this gives a welcome taste of days gone by, although with a modern feel.

No menus as such, just a selection of blackboards propped up on the mantelpiece. There were pub classics galore – and at terrifically reasonable prices.

It’s standard fare – scampi, pie of the day, steaks if you’re feeling extravagant (although not at extravagant prices), burgers, gammon, sausage etc.

Maureen chose chicken and mushroom pie, while I opted for Cumberland sausage. Both came with chips and peas. Did I want a fried egg with my sausage, came the request from the bar. Indeed I did.

The two sisters who were front of house that evening were efficient and friendly. By 5.30pm the place was very busy – the Harbour is clearly well known in these parts for its great value.

The food came promptly, with a jug of gravy being brought as an extra to go with the pie. It was all good. Lots of it, good quality, well-cooked, classic pub grub. Nothing remotely fancy – but at £5.50 a pop, fantastic value. No wonder so many people were eating. Lots of contractors were in, I noticed, and the pub was doing a roaring trade.

The Harbour’s Sunday lunches are apparently terrific, too. No booking – you have to wait at the bar till a place becomes available, so popular are they. No hardship, I’m sure.

Back to the Wednesday teatime grub and my sausage was a generous portion and well-cooked with a perfectly fried egg. Maureen’s pie was packed with chunky chicken breast. All good stuff.

There were three puds available that evening: Apple pie, ginger sponge or syrup sponge – with custard or ice cream. No fancy syllabubs or possets or pannacottas here – hurrah. Maybe they should do their own Barrow version of an Eton Mess - and call it a Strand Shambles or something.

We went for the apple pie to share: a huge wedge of delicious pie, swimming in a veritable lake of dreamy custard. Fab.

As we left at 6.30pm, the Harbour was very busy, with people eating in both the dining room and bar. There’s also a pool area. This is a proper pub – and I was very impressed.

I was even more impressed when I got the bill. With two rounds of drinks, two mains and a pudding, the whole thing came to £20.80. Superb value.

The Harbour may not be the most glamorous place from the outside, nor is it in the “best” part of town. But I’ll tell you what: it’s an absolute cracker of a pub – and well worth dropping anchor there.

Louise Allonby

Scores

Food - 4

Service - 5

Value - 5

Atmosphere - 4

Pros

Classic, well-cooked grub

Spacious dining room

Friendly service

Cons

No starters

Lacks kerb appeal