FOOD: The Black Labrador, Underbarrow

By the time I pulled in to the car park of the the Black Labrador pub in the pretty village of Underbarrow, my husband was claiming to feel sick because I had driven so quickly over Gummers How (I hadn't) and I was wondering how long quickie divorces take these days - and whether "becoming a speed awareness bore" constitutes reasonable grounds for acquiring a decree nisi.

"You're driving back, seeing as you're such an expert," I declared, handing him the keys and heading inside the pub for an equilibrium-restoring glass of wine.

The Black Labrador is a recently-done-up belter. For those partial to a trip over the glorious Gummers How, it's past the Mason's Arms, past the Hare and Hounds, past the Punchbowl at Crosthwaite - and you're there.

Confusingly, until its name change to coincide with the refurb, the Black Labrador used to be called the Punchbowl but the owners took the sensible decision no longer to be one of two Punchbowls on the same road.

The traditional whitewashed pub has been extended, with a substantial restaurant wing having been built off the front elevation.

It's lovely. Airy, smart, spacious yet cosy, tastefully decorated and with acres of glass doors which open up to give that "indoors outdoors" feel on warm sunny days.

The main body of the pub is darker (in a good way), cosy and oozing traditional charm. Plenty of people were in there enjoying a midweek lunch, but we decided to try out the new restaurant area for our own lunch.

The menu is a good mixture of pub classic and gastro dishes; and we decided to try a selection of the two (our divorce no longer pending, the further down my glass of wine I got).

Smoked mackerel pate for me to start (£5.25) and ham hock and parsley terrine (£6) for the World's Greatest Driver.

The curse of the slate has come upon the Black Labrador, both starters arriving on black, unwieldy slabs of the stuff. But they did look great.

Presentation was top notch and the taste lived up to the appearance. The terrine was rich and meaty, accompanied by delicious home-made pickles. The mackerel left it standing, though, it was so good.

With pink grapefruit, succulent beetroot, carpaccio of cucumber and hazelnuts, it was one of the best pub starters I've ever had. Faultless.

We had the restaurant to ourselves by this point and were able to appreciate the superb job the owners have done on this refurbishment. The only thing missing was the eponymous black Labrador, who the friendly waitress informed us is called Freddie and is a real hit with the customers.

He likes to sit on the pool table greeting the punters, by all accounts. Aww.

Main courses came on proper plates to our slight relief. We were both in the mood for fish, so Gordon had opted for pan-seared hake supreme with mussels, samphire, lobster bisque and other bits and bobs (£14.50) while I had chosen the beer battered haddock at £12.50 on the grounds that any pub worth its salt (and vinegar) simply must be able to get traditional fish and chips right.

The Black Labrador does. Stunningly good haddock and a veritable mountain of home-made chips (far too many, in fact - half the amount would have more than sufficed), with bowls of mushy peas and home-made tartare sauce. Small wonder so many other diners had been tempted by the same, as evidenced when we arrived.

Gordon's hake was, of course, the more sophisticated dish, all the elements working harmoniously, with a piece of perfectly-cooked hake that was polished off in its entirety.

No room for puddings, sadly - they will have to wait for our next visit, which will be sooner rather than later. The Black Labrador is a superb pub, getting everything right. Decor, food, service and atmosphere are pitch perfect. It's well worth a trip over Gummers How - even with a speed awareness bore in the passenger seat.

LOUISE ALLONBY

Food 5

Service 5

Value 4

Atmosphere 5

Pros

Top quality food and presentation

Airy restaurant

Dog friendly

Cons

Fair hike from Furness

Uninspiring view of road from restaurant