YOU can't beat a good bypass - and the Newton one on the A590 near Newby Bridge is as good as they get.

Like the much-criticised and campaigned-over A595 at Kirkby, the road prior to the bypass went through a farm, to all intents and purposes, at a dangerously narrow part of an important arterial road. Not only did the new road take traffic away from the villages of High and Low Newton (and their farms) but it opened up a beautiful vista of the Lakeland fells, which couldn't be seen from the road in its previous guise.

It's a lovely road to drive on. Thankfully, the businesses along the old route don't seem to have suffered unduly from the bypass. WRS at Yew Tree Barn is a prime example of a business that has thrived beyond a bypass, as evidenced by the distance away my sister and I had to park when we called in for lunch at the newly-extended Harry's Bar cafe, which is part of Yew Tree Barn.

I'd been before with my sister a couple of years ago, and loved it, so I was delighted to hear it had been expanded.

And expanded well. Not for Harry's Bar an unrecognisable transformation, but a subtle extension of the charming cafe, which makes sense of the surroundings and remains true to the reclamation ethos of the business.

It's higgledy-piggledy, with eclectic furniture, floors and lighting - and it really works.

It was a midweek lunchtime and the place was heaving, with coffee and cake partakers and lunchtime diners galore. I had taken the precaution of booking and we were led to a nicely tucked away table which afforded a great view of the rest of the room.

It's hard to overstate the lovely atmosphere of this cafe bar, it having that undefinable something that makes a place a delight. It's even got a roaring fire and cosy couches - complete with a selection of magazines and newspapers.

Drinks ordered - a glass of pinot grigio for my sister Nicola and some sparkling elderflower for me - we perused the menu and that day's specials board.

There's plenty of choice, from light snacks to full meals. Nicola decided on the fish platter, which comprised smoked mackerel, smoked salmon and smoked trout, while I opted for a lasagne - good choices all round, confirmed the very pleasant member of staff who served us.

People watching is the name of the game for me when I'm dining out - and there's plenty of opportunity for it at Harry's Bar, with a constant stream of customers coming in and out. Nicola, with her back to the room, drew the short straw in this regard, having nothing more interesting than me to look at, while I gave a running commentary on the comings and goings.

The food arrived promptly and tasted as good as it looked. Everything here is from local suppliers, I am pleased to report. The smoked fish came with generous hunks of fresh bread, pots of butter and tartare sauce (I prefer horseradish with smoked fish - but as I wasn't eating it, it didn't matter) and a colourful salad.

Apart from a few bones in the mackerel (pretty much unavoidable, on the whole), it went down a treat. As did my large and juicy lasagne, which was bursting with tender meat and in a great bechamel sauce. I also got a large salad and creamy coleslaw and some delicious fresh focaccia, which was wickedly moreish.

For pudding we shared a dreamy chocolate brownie with a huge scoop of vanilla ice cream, all washed down with two large cups of coffee. Service was excellent throughout and we loved the quirky little touches. Tap water comes to the table in proper glass milk bottles (remember those?).

On the way out I procured a delicious-looking slice of coffee and walnut cake to take home for hubby, and the bill all told came to just over £35.

Plenty of time to have a browse among the gorgeous gifts and some interesting reclamation items (I nearly bought a stunning pair of stone lions for the garden), then back out into the sunshine for a trip back along the excellent bypass.

Harry's Bar at Yew Tree Barn (maybe it should be called Harry's Barn, as my nephew suggested) is a delightful place to while away an afternoon. It's charming, atmospheric and the food packs a real punch.

As Frank Bruno might say, "Know what I mean, 'Arry?"

By LOUISE ALLONBY

Food 4

Service 4

Atmosphere 5

Value 4

Pros

Authentic and charming

Home-cooked food

Free wifi Dog friendly

Cons

Very busy at peak times

Not open evenings